Chiang Mai Trivia

Redirect to Reno blog

2012-01-26T20:17:00.000-08:00

This is the new burger man on Canal Rd just beside the gas station down from Huay Kaew Rd.

For 60 baht a nice little burger with egg and bacon and salad.
Another 20 baht and you get chips too.
A nice little meal for 80 baht- $2.60

This is my last post here for a while as I am rather busy.
Go to my personal blog for more social updates.
Click here.

Most Thai Teachers fail their own subjects.

2012-01-26T17:38:00.001-08:00

Most Thai Teachers fail their own subjects.

Mar 12

Posted by thaiteachers

BANGKOK (AFP) — High school test results in Thailand have revealed a failure rate of more than 80 percent in mathematics, biology and computer studies – among the teachers.
The failure rates for teachers who took exams in their own subjects were about 88 percent for computer studies, 84 percent for mathematics, 86 percent in biology and 71 percent in physics, the education ministry said.
And almost 95 percent of about 37,500 secondary school directors did not score a pass mark in English and technology, according to the ministry.
The poor results have ignited controversy in Thailand about educational standards.
“Even teachers fail, so how can we raise the quality of students?” Education Minister Chinnaworn Boonyakiat was quoted as saying by the Bangkok Post newspaper.
More than 84,000 teachers and school directors took the exams, the first of their kind.
AFP 2010-06-09 | AFP News Sponsor

International Beer Festival

2011-12-24T22:34:00.000-08:00

Note the presence of Lanna Culture

No, I didn't go.

I just thought you might like a glimpse of the set-up: beer stalls, lots of drinking tables, and a stage for some "culture".

The cool "high" season is the time to gather in large groups outside and drink lots of beer and/or whisky.

Though oddly enough, most of the "festivals" are sponsored by beer companies. This could be an attempt to chance Thai drinking habits where the standard is to buy a large bottle of whisky to be mixed with cola, soda and ice... which sort of makes the buying of Black Label a bit pointless.

So, if you like sitting around outside drinking in a crowd with entertainment that mostly seems even less than mediocre, then this is the time for you!

Sorry if I am sounding a bit cynical but the obvious commercial nature of these "events" and their tawdry delivery is just a bit much- especially when you read the glowing reviews from the local media.

But I will say that it is a beautiful poster.

Citylife Fair Day, Tap water

2011-12-16T23:01:00.000-08:00

First ominous note: hard to squeeze through the parked cars to get in...

Wut, friend and Mark painting and selling (they actually sold a couple of paintings).

The goods on offer were not that interesting- some boring books and lots of second hand clothes.

I did not understand this sign.

Scattered around, various tables with the requisite staring dinosaur...

Formation dancing remains a significant part of "Thai culture" though oddly enough all I can see is a rather bad rendition of the Channel Nine Dancers from Brian Henderson's Bandstand in Australia in the 1960s-1970s

Ah, the mysteries of "Thai Style" and "Thai Culture" where everything is uniquely Thai, never derived from another culture and always beyond the comprehension of the foreigner.

So, of course, the food stalls are on one side and the tables and chairs for eating the food are some 50 metres away through an obstacle course of other stalls, stands and equipment- and invisible behind the building.

And even though there is lots of spare room in the middle of the ground, the stalls are so close together that two people find it difficult to pass.

Anyway, it was a pleasant diversion, and I bought a snack.

This is an annual event and a highlight of the Chiang Mai social calendar. Really!

______________

Tap Water

For three years I have been trying to get a definitive answer about the quality of the CM tap water.

Now I think I have my answer. I found an article in Citylife (host of the above event) which interviewed various water officials who stated the water was excellent quality when it left their treatment plants... so good they drank it themselves... and then the writer bought some testing kits and was going to test the water from various houses... and then nothing...

Citylife never publishes anything negative about Chiang Mai or Thailand.

This is understandable as it is against the law to broadcast negative stories about Thailand overseas or provide material that could be negative.

And this as I am reading politicians describe Thailand's "freedom of expression"...

Obviously "a contradiction in terms" was not taught in their English classes.

Sold: Kaan's Restaurant

2011-12-09T01:53:00.001-08:00

Eight months later, after an increasing impost by various persons in uniform, and the restaurant has been sold off to pay the various demands... eventually sucking up all the investment.

One problem is that it is almost impossible to know what is really going on. No matter what anyone tells you, you have to take it with a grain of salt.

I had been warned, multiple times, that this would happen- that it would all end in disaster- and they were right. The invisible, and not so invisible hands, reach out grasping and demanding.

One of the highlights is the ability of the "hands" to put people in the lockup, apparently without any due process, and demand payment of "fines" the amount of which seems to be determined by how much someone thinks can be had...

There is no recourse.

A recent survey came out placing Thailand as a country of "minor corruption" compared to other places.

Another estimated that between 30 and 50% of all government spending went on various forms of corruption.

A tiny bar can be spending all of its profit on various fees as "protection money", which seems to actually mean protection from those not so invisible hands.

When the foxes are in charge of the hen house the chooks have little chance of any real success, and it always seems to be the little chicks that are the easiest targets.

Only a crazy person would seriously consider setting up a business in this environment.

Business Mushrooms

2011-10-30T00:49:00.000-07:00

Hairdressing Salon- 8 Weeks

"Slid" came from a transformed laundromat- repainted, retiled and big mirrors installed on the walls.

That was about 8 weeks ago. Now they have gone, though the mirrors remain, presumedly because they are stuck to the wall.

So why would someone start a hairdressing business in the ground floor of a condo, away from the street? Did they realise that there are only a few hundred residents, who probably have a hair strategy already in place?

Did they also realise that getting your hair cut in a room with no aircon and no air flow might be a bit uncomfortable, a bit hot?

But you can't ask these questions, these sorts of questions, forever and in Chiang Mai you will be doing that if you aren't careful.

Here businesses grow like mushrooms and disappear just as quickly all over town. Restaurants and such are knocked down and new structures put up, over and over again.

There are various theories about this; they follow the advice of monks and fortune tellers, they failed to factor the expenses of corruption, they never understand the lessons of history and most curious, that the proceeds of corruption have to be used for something, so a business where you can invite people and big note yourself is essential...

The corruption angle has been prominent in my own mind recently. Kaan's restaurant has been closed as a result of repeated attacks by various arms of "law enforcement" inventing crimes and fines, and now sold off to someone who may be better off. New's bar is subject to regular minor requests for donations from five different "enforcement" branches.

And most recently I have been made aware of I have been made aware of the scandal at a condo I am involved with...

As time goes on it all gets a bit boring, especially when you consider that the chancre is ubiquitous.

The most stunning example was one of a retiring teacher who explained that she could never have become a headmistress because she didn't have the million baht bribe required to get the position, and was not prepared to borrow the money from some loan shark. Of course, she in turn would recoup that investment several times over by accepting "tea money" from eager parents.

In the end you just have to accept it, and while you cannot ignore it, you can give it minimal attention by keeping a low profile.

A disturbing side effect of this was raised by my neighbor. He was driving along with his Thai girlfriend in the countryside when they saw a car that had run off the road. My neighbor, an Australian, wanted to stop and help. His girlfriend, a Thai, reacted in horror. "No way. If you stop they will call the police and say it was your fault, and demand lots of money! Drive on!"

Perhaps now you can sense the endemic nature of the issue. It is imagined to be everywhere, in everyone. Rather sad really.

Not much to report...

2011-08-13T02:41:00.000-07:00

Sorry for so few updates recently. Apart from being busy with various projects there just hasn't been that much of interest to report.

If you want a more personal take on the experience of working/living/teaching in Chiang Mai, go to my personal blog.

Go to Reno 2011 blog for more trivial updates. CLICK HERE.

Andaman Seafood Restaurant- Horrible

2011-08-13T02:33:00.000-07:00

Last night we ate at the Andaman Seafood place off Mahidol Rd; waited an hour for a table, very slow and inefficient service and horrible food. Even the fried rice was inedible. And all the dishes arrived at our table cold.

Branch 1: Opposite Nissan North Wave, Mahidol Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai

Here's the link to their website LINK

Do NOT go to this restaurant.

Kaan's Restaurant: Map & Pics

2011-06-22T16:18:00.001-07:00

Baan Mai Raan Aahaan

Kaan’s House of Wood Restaurant

Traditional Thai food with an English Menu

Call Kaan 084 374 7628, 089 435 3367

On Changklan Rd, just before Mahidol

Dinners from 5pm. Home Catering Available.

Grilled Fish, a signature dish


David & Camparida, my friends across the Chomdoi void, and enthusiastic about Kaan's food:

"The best Thai food we ever had in Chiang Mai"

Myself (Reno) and Kaan (pron. Garn)

Kaan's best mate and grill chef out the front of Baan Mai

Guests enjoying outdoor dining, and staff having a quoff

Click on map to make it bigger.

Apartments to Rent

2011-02-22T22:04:00.000-08:00

308 Viang Ping

Viang Ping 308 and 310 Pictures and Website Map

Studio, 4,900/month, Huai Kaew area. Near CMU.

Viang Ping Mansions, two studio apartments.

Situated just minutes away from the Niman Buzz

but without the noise or the traffic.

Fully furnished with bath, big balcony, cooking equipment, linen.

Bathroom in Thai marble with large bath.

Large swimming pool onsite at a cost of 40B per session (if they catch you!?)

Absolute Bargain.

Price is for a minimum of 3 months, 12 months lease negotiable.

Australian Owner 053 400 565 (call afternoons, evenings answering machine) renodal@gmail.com

CLICK ON THE WORDS IN GREEN BOLD TO GO TO 

Website with Google Map at Chiang Mai Properties

CLICK ON PICTURES TO GO TO

Picasa Web Albums

315 Viang Ping 24/06/10 7:54 PM

Viang Ping 315 Website Map

Studio, 7,900/month, Huai Kaew area. Near CMU.

Price is for a minimum of 3 months, 12 months lease negotiable.

Fully furnished with bath, large balcony big enough for tables and chairs, small kitchen area with sink and cooking equipment, linen.

Bathroom in Thai marble with large bath.

Large swimming pool onsite at a cost of 40B per session (if they catch you!?)

This beautiful apartment with its lovely views of Suthep Mountain is uniquely quiet and convenient, just around the corner from the Nimanhaemin buzz and excitement, but away from the noise.

Australian Owner 053 400 565 (call afternoons, evenings- answering machine) renodal@gmail.com

312 Lanna 52sqm studio

Lanna 312 Website Map

Lanna Nakorn Condo, near Lanna Hospital on Superhighway Road

Studio, 4,900/month, 52 square metres.
Price is for a minimum of 3 months, 12 months lease negotiable.

Very quiet, very large room with corner breezes.

Fully furnished with bath, big balcony, cooking equipment, linen.

Absolutely Amazing Bargain of a Life time!

This is your elegant weekender style apartment.

No overbearing marbles or wood finishes, just the joys of clean big tiles, big windows and the joys of jungle views just outside.

Also, while there are security cameras and keycard entry, there are no busybody guards to gossip about you behind your back.

Australian Owner 053 400 565 (call afternoons, evenings answering machine) renodal@gmail.com

Click on this link for a LONGER story about the apartments.

ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:

Can I see them right now?!
Probably not. I am a full-time teacher and student as well, so I don't have a lot of time free. So I have to arrange for Stig to show them to you. It might be today but more likely tomorrow.

Do you own the apartments?
Yes I do. But you may not meet me. I have an agent who takes care of them for me- Stig Vinck at Chiang Mai Properties. He organises his man Nonny to show them to people, and handles the contracts and payments.

The advantage for you is that, if anything goes wrong, Stig has a team of plumbers, electricians and cleaners to handle any problem quickly.

The advantage for me is that I can concentrate on my job as an English teacher at Chiang Mai University and my studies (by distance) for a Master of Applied Linguistics (TESOL) at Macquarie University in Sydney.

What are the standard charges?
Most of the time in Chiang Mai you will be asked to pay one month security deposit, first month and last month rent. For a one year lease we only ask for one month deposit and first month's rent.

For 3 month leases we prefer all 3 months in advance, plus the one month deposit.

Can I pay less than your quoted prices?
We are flexible but don't expect a huge discount. After all, I have to pay maintenance fees and take of these places when they are empty. Nonetheless, for a one year lease there might be some consideration.

What floor are they on?
And yes, 3 means they are all on the 3rd floor!

Can I rent for just one month?
Yes, we will rent them for just one month but the price will be the same as for three months to cover the costs of contracts, viewings, meetings etc. So no, not really.

Will you redecorate the apartment and buy all new furniture for me?
No I won't.

Can I have my own reserved parking spot?
No you can't.

Can I have a dog or cat?
So long as the apartments are returned in good order you can do what you like.

What are the extra costs?
You will have to pay for electricity, water.
Electricity is paid direct to the company and is not marked up- anywhere from 400 to 2,000B depending on how much you use it.
Water anywhere from 200-400B, again if you are in the shower all day it will be more.

Is the swimming pool free of charge?
As I mentioned above, Viang Ping charges 40B per person to use the pool but as there is never there around the pool I doubt this is a real thing.

At Lanna the swimming pool is there but has been under "renovation" for two years... should be finished "soon".

From: Chiang Mai Friends

2011-01-18T02:55:00.000-08:00

This is from CMF's group- sent to all members and prospective members, 18 Jan 2011.

As you read this you may pick up on a common theme which can be summed up as this:
Don't complain about anything in Thailand. If you don't like it, go away!

It is very difficult to determine what this really means. Quite possibly it is the idea that a "guest" should never complain to the "host".

It has also been observed that Thais are a bit sensitive on many issues. They don't like the fact that their students rank at the bottom of IQ tests across Asia, or comments by foreigners about the quality of business service, or how expats refuse to adapt to local methods.

On the other hand, it has to be said that tourists and expats often behave abominably, rudely and strangely- even to me. But they are tolerated so long as they are paying the bills.

Human nature has many forms.

I attach the following not so much as a criticism but rather as a perfect example of what to expect.
_______________________________________________________

On a sadder note: There have been some murmurings of dissatisfaction from some of our Foreign Residents which have reached Khun Boong. there have been some threats to cause confusion if the Governor and Mayor and other important city officials are present at our 'celebration'. We are sure this is not to be taken seriously and was an impulsive reaction.

As a clarification: All Foreign residents are Guests of the Kingdom of Thailand and will always retain that status regardless of how rich or well connected one might claim to be. All of us living here made a voluntary choice to do so and if for whatever reason the magic seems to have disappeared, the choice to continue to live here then needs to be revisited. No one, and absolutely no one is forced to live or even stay here if they are unhappy. The airport is not unreachable and has a variety of international destinations and gateways to try and replace the lost happiness from here.

Please keep in mind this is an Anniversary Celebration of a group of very special friends. This will be an evening of fun and no negative outbursts, sober or otherwise, will be tolerated. CMF can not put the entire mood of this celebration at risk because of a few uncontrollable personal emotions. We are happy to announce the U.S. Consul general, The British and Swedish Consuls and the Commissioner of the Tourist Police will be attending our celebrations. We need to point out, there will be police officers on duty at the venue as is normal procedure when the Governor, the Mayor or other senior city officials gather at public functions. We do hope everyone has a wonderful time and we look forward to meeting you all this Saturday.

Teaching in Chiang Mai, 2010

2011-01-04T21:53:00.000-08:00

Working Life
Research does not always get you to the truth.

Before I came here I did a lot of reading on the net and the reviews of Chiang Mai's teaching opportunities were universally rosy; lots of schools and universities offering jobs, a diverse and rich culture, a climate much more pleasant than Bangkok and, most appealing of all, a chance to work at Chiang Mai University (CMU), the best place in the North.

The hard facts are rather different. There are lots of opportunities to teach but they are mostly not actually legal, meaning most teachers are running off to the border every two weeks to get a new visa and at 300B (around $10/hr) they need to do a lots of hours to make a decent living. The other items are equally odd in that there is "culture" but it is rather small town or tourist-oriented and the climate is varied but hotter than expected at 45 last summer.

As for Chiang Mai University, after a year and a half I did finally get a placement. However, it didn't take long to realise that "academic English" has a very different meaning here. Rather than the heights of semantics and genre concepts, it is more like being able to write a paragraph describing a face, something that was never mentioned anywhere in my research.

So it is a lot more like teaching General English back in Australia but instead of having 16-20hrs per week of intense study the students get rushed through a text for 2-2.5hrs a week- and then get a test which is mostly multiple choice questions. This is a long way from what I might have hoped for...

Also, apparently the university was incorporated several years back so that it now works on the commercial model used by Australian universities; employ as many casual staff as possible and pay them the minimum you can get away with, in this case, 300B/hr ($10-12 AUD).

BUT you are only promised 12hrs/week so the average income once all the unpaid weeks and hours are worked out is around 12,000B/month (probably less).

I started teaching in June 2010 and by Christmas more than a third of the farang staff had already decamped. This was a plus as I got 50% more work (from 4 to 6 classes), as did most other farang teachers, but still very few are planning a long term stay.

Be careful what you wish for.

Prasertland, Canal Rd

2011-01-01T20:48:00.000-08:00

Prasertland has been little more than a large cemented open space for the last to years, with occasional bars opening up and closing down, one after another.

Drink Orgy Slosh was abandoned before I moved here, now it has been stripped and only the sign remains. A shame really, such a good name.

This is the latest addition- B. Rather swish. Will it go the way of the others?

Or will it become the next "in" place as Warm Up (over on Nimanhaemin- not for farang) has been for the last couple of years?

Meantime it's daggy neighbours open and close as often as shithouse doors...

And the rest of the area is little more than an informal parking lot, except for the "events" when they throw up a stage and have a "food festival".

The naming of these things changes, and the sponsors (always a beer/booze company like Singha) also, but the food is always the same; an odd mixture of street stalls serving quite a variety of badly cooked items at slightly inflated prices which you then have to carry through the crowd to a table, if you can find one.

Chiang Mail Mail- useless subscription

2010-12-31T20:55:00.000-08:00

Dear Shana, (Editor of Chiang Mai Mail)

I paid 1,560B for a subscription to your paper (Recpt No. 2054) some time ago.

The receipt was not dated by your staff by was just after the 23 June 2010 when I also paid your paper 1,000B for some advertising.

The subscription was to cover from Vol IX No 24 to Vol X No 23
which I presume is 24 issues- 1 year?

Of that number a few did arrive, but they are always absurdly late. The last one, posted on 16/12/2010 according to the stamp (and published in the same day), arrived on 28/12/2010- 12 days later. The previous one was also 2 weeks late (ie after my complaint email TWO CM Mails arrived around the 15th!). Airmail gets to the English countryside faster.

Given the appalling nature of this service, I request a full refund.

You really should not offer a service you cannot provide.

Regards
Reno Dal

2010 in Chiang Mai Thailand: Ideas and Advice

2010-12-30T21:21:00.000-08:00

Real Estate: no-one mentioned that when the ‘town plan’ runs out developers have free rein for at least a year until the new one is put in place.

No-one expected that, during the “global financial crisis” Thai developers in Chiang Mai would have enough finance to build around 6,000 new condos in 2010, even though many of those built in 2009 are still empty.

Making real estate a rather testy item- a bugger that I bought 5 apartments in early 2009.

Work: If you are here and Caucasian it will be assumed that you have more money than sense and will be happy to work for anywhere from 100B ($3.50) to 300B ($10) per hour. Or less. Though just like Taipei 1999 there will be rumors that some teacher somewhere is making 800B/hr ($31)… But you can bet that one’s hard to find.

Society: If the expat community was 17,000 in 2008 it is certainly a lot less now… no-one knows for sure. But this is for sure; interesting cities are not made of retirees- which is most of the expats here. Dull.

Cost of Living: This piece of string comes in various sizes. Like any third world country, you can live like a pauper in a slum, eat rubbish and drink water (boiled) and you will spend very little. I would reckon you could get by on 6,000B/month (AUD $231) with large helpings of discomfort, tummy upset, and malnutrition.

I get around 20K and still struggle to enjoy life’s basics: dinner out once a week, beer, aircon, satellite TV, DSL internet, home phone and cheese.

Going Native: Back in 1972 my mate Johnny Allen was the first Australian to go to Thailand and become a monk- or so he told me. For two years he immersed himself totally. He was a monk. And then he came back to Australia, back to Slack’s Creek in Queensland to take care of his sick parents, and then this gay man married a woman and had a few kids- and stayed in Slack’s Creek.

One could immerse; learn the language, go to the temple, practice the gestures, even meditate – but only the simple-minded, or the insanely politically-correct could fail to notice that this is still a witchcraft society, that temple construction is stopped due to too many ghosts, that white string will protect a building, that ghosts can rise up and attack you, that apparently-sane people wear a constellation of amulets to protect them from evil.

Planet Shock: This place is probably much the same as any other. Some so-called sophisticated societies cloak their myths in pseudo-science and hide their corruption in political “donations” and “lobbying” but we all know they are corrupt, just very good at hiding it.

The only difference is that here they are really bad at hiding the corruption… they just expect us to believe their lies. A new police chief announces that Chiang Mai will strictly follow the licensing hours and all bars will close at midnight. Now we know that will happen for a while, but not at the bars owned by the army or the police, and then flexibility will return. But of course he needs to assert his position and show he was the right choice for the job, and then things can get back to normal…

Which they did in a few weeks.

Love and Lust. If you are an expat you are rich, and it is the locals belief that you should share, and share, until your money runs out and then you should go home and make some more, and send it here. This is a fact and happens all the time.

From time to time you will hear an expat say how they are different, it will never happen to them… but rust never sleeps.

Summary

This post seems to be about problems and pitfalls... But they do matter.

If I had known that my chances of a full-time position at Chiang Mai university were almost nil, I might not have come here.
Had I known about the "town plan" going into abeyance I might not have invested in apartments.
Had I known that Chiang Mai's pretensions to "culture" were mostly just promotional hype for the tourist market, I would have had second thoughts as well.
Perhaps most significant, had I understood more about the character of Thai culture- the racism, the fatalism and the constant obfuscation- I would certainly have taken pause.
But most of all, had I known that most Thai people do not want foreigners living or working here, I would never have come. The syndrome of seeing farang as taking Thai jobs and when in business as taking away Thai money is endemic.

And the idea that farang are fat cash cows to be milked until they leave or die is accepted as a universal truth, which is not a pleasant background.

I am often sadly and silently bemused that my straight friends are surprised when girls lose interest, not seeing that the farang lack of generosity might be the key...

It is hard to believe that a people pretending to the Buddhist ideal can be so mendacious and materialistic.

But there you have it.

Not Curruption when its old news...

2010-11-19T06:14:00.000-08:00

Alpine land case against Sanoh dismissed

Published: 19/11/2010 at 02:38 PM
Online news: Politics

The Supreme Court's Criminal Division for Holders of Political Positions on Friday dismissed a case in which former interior minister Sanoh Thienthong was accused of abuse of power in acquiring temple land which later was developed as the Alpine Golf Club and Housing Estate, saying the statute of limitations has expired.

The charge was brought against Mr Sanoh by the Lawyers Council on behalf of the National Anti-Corruption Commission after the Office of the Attorney General refused do pursue it on grounds that the 20-year statute of limitations on the case expired on Feb 12.
After the case was accepted for consideration, Mr Sanoh petitioned the court to first decide on this crucial point.
The court ruled by majority in favour of Mr Sanoh and ordered the case dismissed.
According to the NACC, a woman named Nuem Chamnanchartsakda in 1971 bequeathed the 732 rai land to Wat Thammikaram in Prachuap Khiri Khan.
The abbot sought to have the ownership transferred to the temple so it could make use of the land, but Mr Sanoh, then deputy interior minister in charge of the Land Department, disallowed the transfer on Feb 13, 1990, saying the temple did not have the money to pay the necessary transfer fees.
A foundation set up to manage the land sold it to Alpine Real Estate Co and Alpine Golf & Sports Club Co.
The NACC found Mr Sanoh's wife, his younger brother and a close associate held shares in the two companies as of Jan 23, 1990.
The companies sold the land to Thaksin Shinawatra in 1999 before he became prime minister.
The Council of State had previously concluded the land was monastic property in line with Section 84 of the Land Act and could not be transferred.
The NACC found Mr Sanoh's wife, Uraiwan Thienthong, held 300,000 shares worth 30 million baht in the two companies and his younger brother, Witthaya Thienthong, and his close associate, Chucheep Harnsawat, both held 150,000 shares worth 15 million baht as of Jan 23, 1990.
Mr Sanoh is leader of the Prachraj Party and a former chairman of Thaksin's Thai Rak Thai party.

Abolition of Slavery in Thailand

2010-10-25T04:42:00.000-07:00

While Chulalongkorn is credited with the abolition of slavery, the final act was not completed until 2 years after his death. Previous to that laws were passed "leading to" the abolition.

1863 United States: Emancipation Proclamation declares those slaves in Confederate-controlled areas to be freed. Most slaves in "border states" are freed by state action; separate law frees the slaves in Washington, D.C.

1912 Siam (Thailand), formally abolishes all slavery. The act of selling a person into slavery was abolished in 1897 but slavery itself was not outlawed.

1921 Nepal abolishes slavery^[41]^[42]
1923 Afghanistan abolishes slavery^[43]
1924 Iraq abolishes slavery

This may seem a bit late until you consider:

1963 United Arab Emirates abolishes slavery
1970 Oman abolishes slavery
1981 Mauritania abolishes slavery^[49]^[50]

From Wikipedia of course!

In Australia the 1967 referendum allowed Aboriginal people to be counted as members of the population and while before that they had the 'right to vote' they didn't actually have freedom of movement or the right to a passport up till that time. They were basically almost all prisoners of religious reserves or government camps.

I include this note to perhaps highlight the situation of Australian Aborigines by way of an exception. In general the Australian government prefers to paper over the fact that indigenous people were treated as subhuman, the lighter-skinned ones to be trained as menial staff for white households and the rest to be kept under control in reserves- with no freedom of movement.

I mention this for the sake of balance. Sure we didn't have slavery, but the fact that we had a significant part of our population imprisoned and powerless shows that respect for the dignity of all human life was a late arrival in Australia- and much later than Thailand.

Namatjira Landscape

Regarding Australia's first world famous Aboriginal artist:

Albert Namatjira
He is notable for being the first Northern Territory Aborigine to be freed from the restrictions of legislation that made Aborigines wards of the State.

In 1957 the government exempted Namatjira and his wife from the restrictive legislation that applied to Aborigines in the Northern Territory. This entitled them to vote, own land, build a house and buy alcohol. Although Albert and Rubina were legally allowed to drink alcohol, his Aboriginal family and friends were not. (also from Wiki)

Namatjira died a pauper despite world fame and considerable income due to the Aboriginal tradition whereby all personal income is shared with your extended family. The practice remains to this day and is a major disincentive for Aboriginal people to go to work. What is the point? Whatever I earn or own is shared with everyone else who is on the Dole.

Or, in Namatjira's case:

Due to his wealth, Namatjira soon found himself the subject of "humbugging", a ritualised form of begging. Arrernte are expected to share everything they own, and as Namatjira's income grew, so did his extended family. At one time he was single-handedly providing for over six hundred people.

Sadly the Australian government does not address this issue. It is seen as part of "culture" and thus, despite its debilitating and demotivating effect, cannot be attacked or amended. Personally I believe this is a major factor in keeping Aboriginal people poor and marginalized - with some of the worst health and education statistics in the world.

Close observers may note similar "humbugging" and "sharing" behaviors some parts of Thai culture as well.

Lanna Studio apartment for rent available now. Chiang Mai.

2010-01-31T23:48:00.000-08:00

Sadly our previous tenant needed to return to Singapore for family reasons.

Available now for 8,500 per month. Kitchen area with cooking facilities, plus dining and lounge area.

Large balcony overlooks quiet jungle.

5kms north of city centre, near Lanna Hospital.

Studio Apartment for rent from 16 Feb 2010 Chiang Mai

2010-01-31T23:40:00.000-08:00

From 6,500 per month, fully furnished with balcony, bath and cooking utensils. Cups, plates and linen provided. Contact owner renodal@gmail.com or phone 053 400 565

Travels around Chiang Mai

2010-01-04T06:53:00.000-08:00

Dio Pui Hilltribe village, to the west of Doi Suthep over the mountain.
More like a shopping village and most of the people in costume are Thai people posing for a photo opportunity.

Doipui Hilltribe 26Dec09

Excursion to Wat Prathat, Doi Suthep

Doi Suthep Excursion 27Dec09

Ping River Cruise

Ping River

Sunday Walking Street

Saturday Walking Street

Saturday Market

Enoy!

Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Short Video

2010-01-04T00:19:00.001-08:00

5 mins HQ version

Blackouts, Power Failures, often?

2009-12-16T19:50:00.000-08:00

When I was young, in the 1960s in Sydney, power outages were fairly common during thunderstorms but otherwise you could pretty well count on the electrical supply.

But during the 1990s the power supply was privatised and the cost of operating multiple backup systems was deemed too high. As a result power outages in Sydney have been fairly common around the city- sometimes for an hour or so but once a year or so a cut power line can leave a CBD city area, or a bunch of suburbs in the dark for days.

Here in Chiang Mai power cuts are also fairly regular. Sometimes in the afternoon of a sunny clear day, the power cuts out for a couple of hours- maybe once a month. Or it might stop of an evening, again for an hour or two. So you can expect an outage every couple of weeks on average.

Living in a house it doesn't matter so much but up here on the 13th floor, it can be a real hassle, and sometimes it is just this building, sometimes just the elevators don't work.

So it's a good idea to keep a couple of flashlights, matches and candles on standby. I am even thinking of getting one of those battery-powered fluorescent camping lamps.

As for power surges, I am not sure. My desktop computer and related machines all run through a surge protector- probably a sensible protection.

Sometimes, as above, the power supply is cut to our emergency lighting and it comes on automatically.

Of course, this also means that an alarm clock that runs off the mains is not so reliable- and not popular here.

Safety Signs: The Latest Fashion

2009-12-15T20:10:00.000-08:00

I noticed recently these signs appearing on building sites.

It must be in response to some new government ruling.

Of course, I have NEVER seen any of these safety measures actually being put in practice.

The safety helmet is a large straw hat, the goggles are MAYBE sunglasses for welders and while they do wear gloves sometimes, the safety harness is a hand occasionally clasped around a bit of bamboo.

These are the workers' accommodations.

The trough to the left is the bathroom and over to the right (out of picture) are some toilets.

There are a lot of workers on this site from time to time- 3 large multi-storey buildings - so obviously only a few actually live here.

Building workers and domestic staff are usually Burmese refugees, getting by on a few thousand baht a month- not enough to rent a room in town, that's for sure.

It used to amuse me how the signs around town seemed totally separate from reality, a sort of alternate universe where pedestrian crossings meant something, or road signs are purely decorative.

Now I know the rule is simple: ignore the signs if you can get away with it.

This Is Thailand.

WEST restaurant, brighter

2009-12-14T04:34:00.000-08:00

The summer months have been hell for business in Chiang Mai.

It is only now that things are picking up, even though the tourist numbers are still way down from 2007 and rumours of more Red Shirt (Pro-Thaksin) protests for the new year are not helping at all.

Anyway, while David is waiting to get his huge photo prints, I loaned him some canvasses to brighten up the place:

And some twinkly lights to brighten up the garden of an evening:

If you haven't been there in a while I am sure you will be surprised.

You can call David for directions, to order take away and even home delivery:

080 122 7136

Oh, and a fabulous range of pizzas too!

Open 7 days
Lunch 11:30-2:00
Dinner 5:00-10:00

In the market area opposite Hillside 4, between Huay Kaew and Nimanhaemin Soi 5 (they are parallel, I know).

Beside Krit's La Vie en Rose and Niman Kitchen.

News Resources

2009-12-09T20:19:00.000-08:00

There are a variety of English news options for Chiang Mai available on the net that will give you an idea of what is happening:

Events and Parties- Around Town with Marj

General News - Chiang Mai Mail

Monthly Magazine- Citylife

Film News and Screening Times- Tomat Chiang Mai Films

There is also Paul Schoenkopf who sends out a list of classical concert stuff, if you email him: fasgroup@hotmail.com he will put you on his mailing list. Most of it is at Payap University, quite a long way from the town centre. I have never been to any of them so I can't comment.

He also runs a weekly dining group for which you must book and if you are sick or late he cuts you off the dining invitation for 6 months as punishment. I have never been to that one.

Anyway, hope this is useful.

Insect Screens: Insorn PL

2009-12-08T23:04:00.000-08:00

Don't ask my why but it turned out that the people who put in our window screens could not do doors... but luckily Stig's uncle had an idea:

Insorn PL. 053 334 471

They don't speak English so I got Kaan to call them. They put in a swing door for our condo in black (normally 1,000 in aluminium, but 1,300B for black) and then did the sliding door and window at our Lanna apartment for a total of 2,300 (an extra 300 because the window wasn't square).

The process is that you need to make an appointment with them - always around 8:30am, don't ask me why- to measure, give them a deposit and then they come back some days later.

Lavender Lanna Hotel Skygarden

2009-11-14T19:58:00.000-08:00

From a cocktail party on 14 Nov 2009

The Duke's Riverside

2009-11-06T00:01:00.000-08:00

There are two branches to this restaurant- the other one is in the Night Market area.

Last night my friend Kaan and I went to riverside for dinner. One entree, two mains and two cokes came to around 900 baht- quite a lot for Chiang Mai- and while my scallops wrapped in bacon were quite good, the fish'n'chips that Kaan ordered was appalling; the batter was hard as a rock and the chips were a mangled mess of burned crisp. Not good.

Now admittedly WEST is run by my friend David but there is no doubt that his food is better presented and much better priced.

And on top of that, it is NOT beside the river. It is beside the road beside the river- so this is the view:

Not so exciting.

Teaching English for B15k($550)/month full time

2009-11-04T17:07:00.000-08:00

This is an example from Nov 5, 2009. Yes, it is a full-time job for less than an expat could live on.

All the same, it is 3 times what a local waiter or labourer might get paid.

And yes, you will need 3 years experience.

This is from the Ajarn.com website and for November there are a total of 2 jobs listed.

The other one is for a high school for 30k per month- and you could live on that quite comfortably here.

Thaivisa also carries some ads but Ajarn.com is the main teacher employment site.

The fact is that work is a bit hard to find at the moment.

The 'high season' should have begun but it hasn't really and the economy is in the doldrums.

	Nandachart Grade School & Preschool Chiang Mai (Thailand) At least 15,000 Baht/month nandachart@yahoo.com Send Resume Full Time EP Teacher Full time teacher for kindergarten English program start working Nov 25, 2009 1 year contract and 3 month probation preriod Integrated class K 1-2-3 in one class and need qualified teacher with at least 3 year expreriences in teaching. Salary start at 10,000 Baht/month and up We recognize all major full-time TESOL/TEFL courses including: Chichester College TESOL (TEFL/TESL) TEFL Certificate Chiang Mai University

Lavender Hotel Rooftop

2009-10-30T02:54:00.000-07:00

Lavender Hotel: Rooftop Cocktail Party

2009-10-30T02:52:00.000-07:00

For members of the Long Yang Club and their guests

Galae Restaurant

2009-10-22T06:48:00.000-07:00

To get to this place you need to follow Suthep road towards the mountain, then it turns into a bit of a track and go up the hill, about 50 metres up, turn left. If you turn too early, you'll be at the lake.

It serves a variety of food but at a few hundred baht for a lunch for two it seemed a bit pricey for the poor quality. The fish was excellent, the fries OK but I found the Northern dishes a bit off.

Also, make sure you bring mosquito repellent. We got bitten at lunchtime so at dinner it will be deadly.

That's the restaurant behind the fountain.

Teaching English

2009-10-20T23:13:00.000-07:00

The basic rule in Thailand seems to be that if a Thai person can do the job then a foreigner should not.

As a result the primary work for expats is teaching English and while Chiang Mai is touted as having lots of colleges, schools and universities the reality is that full-time positions do not come up often.

It is not unusual for people to wait around for two years before getting a full-time position. I have met people who were here for several years and never found one.

The pay varies widely. Little community colleges will offer around B200/hr (AUD$8) while the universities and more up-market colleges pay around B300 (AUD$12).

In the private colleges, how many hours you get will vary. Most of the teaching will be at night, sometimes for 4 hours and then also weekends- Saturday and Sunday. I reckon it is a function of how much the staff and students like you, and how lucky you are.
The number of students also seems to vary greatly and there is no doubt that this luxury is cut back when the local economy is struggling. One school I go to has been running at less than 10% capacity most of 2009.

And here's the interesting conundrum, not untypical of Thailand; if most of the teaching work is part-time and it is impossible to get a work visa for part-time work, how can this happen?

And the answer is that officially, it can't- but it does. As a result teachers are running off to the border at Mae Sae every month to get passports stamped and remain here in a tourist visa.

If you had been reading the news about visas through 2009 you would have been very confused. At one point there was a move to limit all tourist visas to 14 days, then only to 14 days for overland visas... and then it all seemed to change again. Now it seems that you can get a one-month visa at the border.

Teaching at the universities is not easy to get. They prefer that you have a masters in Education.

In the colleges, they want a bachelors degree plus a CELTA or similar.

Finally there is teaching work in the high schools- up at the crack of dawn and work Mon-Fri from 8am till 4pm. They pay B30,000/month and there is work regularly offered for this, but mostly in out of the way places. You can live quite comfortably on 30k/m and you get a work visa to boot.

Finally there is the volunteer option. For B10,000 CMU Language Institute will arrange a position for you, a one-year visa and access to the university pool and library (and extra B1,000). Email Carmen who is the co-ordinator: Carmen Rademaker

carmenrademaker@gmail.com

Through this scheme I am teaching at the monk university at Wat Suan Dok which is a delight.

Good luck!

Lamphun Willi Hotel

2009-10-18T03:27:00.000-07:00

The only upmarket hotel in Lamphun (Lampun) from 1,200 per night. Very nice rooms, fair service.

Lamphun Willi Hotel

Lavender Hotel: Power Boys

2009-10-15T04:37:00.000-07:00

LINK to Hotel Website

Situated opposite the northwest corner of the old city, beside the Ram Hospital, this is the first 'gay' hotel in Chiang Mai.

There is the Santitham Guest House which also has a very gay friendly approach but at present the staff are a bit short on English speakers.

The Lavender had a soft opening event, primarily for the cabaret and 'massage' service (Power Boys) in early October 2009 (2552).

Franky the cabaret show is just a bit tame- lots of costume changes, lots of 'synchronised swimming' dance moves and the essential 'comedienne' who sadly speaks only Thai. The seats are lined up in rows- banquettes with little tables for drinks- making cruising a bit out of the question.

Is this aimed at the local Thai gay community? Judging by the guest list on opening night, definitely not.

Watch this space.

I went there two days ago to look at the roof garden and cocktail bar only to find a bunch of workpeople- mostly women- laying tiles and such. They say it might be ready in November.

Once finished it will be on the 11th floor with a view over the old city and the town so it should be rather nice.

The hotel itself has been done out in a sort of mod-chique style- lots of plain bar surfaces and really not enough frou-frou to make a truly gay/camp impression.

According to the locals, this business venue has never been successful as it is beside a hospital and so must have lots of ghosts...

We shall see. Though, given that we are in the middle of a Global Financial Crisis (the GFC) and also a tourism slump following the political unrest of months past, it is not a great time to start a business.

In fact, tourism is so bad right now (October 2009) that many of the upmarket hotels have nights when they are just totally empty. The very swish Shangri-La that opened earlier this year with hundreds of rooms is said to have just one guest.

Even the cheap guesthouses are often totally vacant. Hard times indeed.

Thai-French Butchery & Pon Yang Kham Restaurant

2009-10-13T01:10:00.000-07:00

This place is on Canal Road (also known as Cholpratan). To get to it you need to be driving north from Suthep and it's about 100 metres from the Phucome Hotel (which is on the corner of Cholpratan and Huay Kaew Rd.)

View Pon Yang Kham Restaurant in a larger map

The restaurant does NOT have menus in English, only Thai, and even then when I went for dinner with a Thai person it was still confusing. In the end dinner and two big bottles of beer (Leo) cost around B700 which is a lot for a Thai style dinner. We had the same thing (plates of raw beef shaved thin) and the same beer for B350 at a more down-market place in town and it was still excellent.

These are the prices per kilo at the butchery but so far I haven't tried them- mainly because the butchery seems to be closed during the day!

So basically the only English you will find is in the name of the restaurant and the butcher's price list. Otherwise the staff seemed to have no English at all.

The parking is situated BEFORE the restaurant so you could easily miss it.

Still, if you are looking for a butcher after 5pm, this might come in handy.

But as for dinner, forget it.

The ONLY Furniture Shop

2009-10-10T23:05:00.000-07:00

View Rattanakosin Furniture Shop in a larger map

The Blue dot is the furniture shop.

Now don't get me wrong- there are heaps of furniture shops in Chiang Mai. The only trouble is that they either all sell the same thing or it is just not available.

I have just spent three weeks trying to find a decent little dining table for two with two matching chairs. I found a lot of terrible rubbish and often when it looked good it was far too small for the caucasian bum.

There were some nice things at around 6,000 baht a set (1 table, 2 chairs) but hey, they won't be on sale till November- even though they are on the shop floor right now (September).

We also saw some ads on the road and stopped. No, sorry, not available. When? We don't know.

We tried Carrefour, Big C, Index, Koncept and a host of others- all to no effect.

So here is the ONLY furniture shop (wood only) that has a wide range and will make what you want in a few days, at a very good price. I got 2 tables and 4 chairs for B2,700 (around $100 AUD), and a couple of bedside tables - not gorgeous but perfectly fine - for B500 (AUD$19) each.

BUT do expect some rigamarole. The shop girl tried her hardest to sell us what they had on the shop floor, saying they didn't have what I wanted. I just said no.

Then I said 'Not today, can deliver anytime soon'. Can they make it?

And then finally she took me to the storeroom out the back where they actually did have the tables I wanted but in the wrong colour. Can you change the colour? No.

Hmmm.

OK, can you MAKE a new table and chairs and make them all this same colour? Yes.

Collect in four days.

So you MUST persist to get what you want. Just keep saying no and eventually they will get it.

Lanna Apartment 312

2009-09-29T04:16:00.000-07:00

53sqm Apt 7,900 near Lanna Hospital

Unique spacious corner apartment.

Close to town (5 minutes drive) with a quiet country feel. Situated to the north of the town centre, Lanna Nakorn features a large, airy apartment with corner breezes, and all of life's necessities.

The condo has a small village feel with mini-mart, internet café, laundry, pool, airy restaurant and a host of street food-sellers just around the corner.

A generous balcony, large enough for chairs and a table, overlooks a peaceful patch of jungle. Natural tones enhance the restful dining experience.

The apartment also boasts a kitchen area with utensils, crockery, microwave, water heater, sink and generous cupboards.

It is fully-furnished including king bed with linen and doona, huge wardrobes, lounge suite, dining suite, dressing table, storage and towel racks.

The generous bathroom has hot water, sink and shower.
At a generous 53 square metres it still has room for dancing.
Move in tomorrow- just bring a towel and a toothbrush.

And being on the on the sensible level 3 you will never be stranded in one of our too common Chiang Mai blackouts!

For more information call Reno

Reno 080 672 8415, Home: 053 400 565

renodal@gmail.com

Viang Ping- the New Look (2 apts)

2009-09-29T04:00:00.000-07:00

42 sqm apt Huai Kaew area
Viang Ping Mansions
Situated just moments from Huay Kaew and Nimanhaemin Rd, and minutes from Chiang Mai university, this apartment offers city convenience with country quiet.
This cosy studio comes fully furnished including a king bed with linen, lots of built-in wardrobe & cupboard space, air-con, hot water and linen.
The bathroom features hot water, marble benches, giant mirrors and a totally relaxing shower bath- soap and a towel.

The condo building boasts a pool, fitness and cheap restaurant just across the soi.
With a small balcony facing north, the apartment remains cool and quiet.
All mod cons included: hotplate, pots, pans, cups, plates, cutlery, electric jug, microwave, wardrobes, TV, telephone for immediate Maxnet connection and mood lighting.
Clever design allows for maximum storage while maintaining a soothing feel of spaciousness and calm.

With all these modern conveniences, you could move in tomorrow- just bring your clothes and a toothbrush.
And being on the on the sensible level 3 you will never be stranded in one of our too common Chiang Mai blackouts!

The Only Video Shop with lots of English...

2009-09-14T02:53:00.000-07:00

Video Shop

There’s just one DVD hire shop that has a decent range of new and classic DVD’s in English.

You will find lots of DVD hire shops around town but they have precious few titles in English. Make sure you check the back cover for language information. I've been caught more than once with what looked like a DVD in English only to take it home and discover it was in Russian with very bad English subtitles.

You will also find lots of DVDs for sale around town- almost all of them are pirate copies for around 70-100 baht and you might feel like you got a bargain but when you get them home you discover they were shot in a cinema (terrible sound/vision), copied in China (subtitles/languages don't work) and quite often just don't work at all.

Whereas the average hire is about 40 baht for a new title and so long as you checked the back of the box, you should be OK.

THE BEST VIDEO SHOP- LOCATION

It is situated just off Suthep Rd- on the western end, just past the intersection with Nimanhaemin.

It is actually on a side street, behind Noelle France.

You'll probably see these signs first if you are driving west along Suthep Rd- they are directly opposite the shop.

On your right will be the CMU Art Museum park that runs from Nimanhaemin to Canal (Cholpratan) Rd. If you see this sign on your right, it's time to stop and walk back.

Can you see why I don't know the name of this business?

Monk Robes- 6 Colours

2009-08-11T22:34:00.000-07:00

Photographically this isn't the best
but it does show some of the styles and colours of the robes.

I will try to get a better rainbow as time goes along but it is not easy to get the different colours in the same place.

Nor do I know yet exactly what they mean.

My friend Wiwat tells me that the darker robes- a shade of brown- are for what he called Jungle Monks, from temples set in the hinterland.

I am told there are six colours for monks.

This photo is of some of my students at Wat Suan Dok.

Condom Sizes

2009-08-11T22:13:00.000-07:00

You often come across this problem while travelling- the monolingual label.

But even when you find the English on the packaging you might be fooled.

The Kingtex condom- which seems to be the most popular brand- is NOT king size.

Rather it seems to be a cunning nod to the hubris of the locals.

There is no question that Featherlite is larger and, perhaps not surprisingly, is not universally available.

The easiest thing is to go to a 7-Eleven and look around the cash register.

There you will find a display of condoms and lubricant.

Take what you need and put it on the counter to purchase.

And don't be embarrassed or concerned, thus far the staff (at 7-Elevens and supermarkets) have always shown not the slightest reaction.

It is interesting that, despite a certain squeamishness in the media, northern Thai people seem very matter-of-fact about sexuality and sexual practice.

Zoo Aquarium Chiang Mai

2009-08-04T17:26:00.000-07:00

Emma Chisset?

Your guess is as good as mine. The printed ticket says B520 for Zoo and Aquarium BUT the website says B450... mysterious but then, This Is Thailand (TIT).

These tickets are for a combined Zoo and Aquarium access- you can't see the Aquarium without seeing the Zoo.

Farang B 450
Thai B 260
Discounted total: B 710

The Zoo by itself is much cheaper- B100 (F), B50 (Th).

Why?

Maybe because the Aquarium is the big attraction- and it has air conditioning, which makes it a real attraction on a hot, damp day.

The first thing you encounter as you enter is this delightful elephant wall- we should have done a shot of us in front of this one...

There is then the transit bus which, according to the website, costs another B20- but not last Sunday, so I don't know for sure.

The truly big thing of the moment at the Zoo is the Pandas and their cub.

To house this furry family a small fortune has been spent on a refrigerated dome (to minus 7?) has been constructed.

Travelling around Chiang Mai at the moment (Aug 2009) you can't miss The Pandas - they are everywhere- little toys, big displays, competitions and billboards.

Around the zoo you can't miss it either.

My reckoning is that the attraction is both the Pandas and the dome- a chance to experience true cold would be a rare thing for most Chiang Mai residents.

But then, the B100 would seem like a lot of money for them- the equivalent of a day's wages.

As for the aquarium, it is large and pleasant.

I wouldn't say that it was gob-smacking exciting but as far as fish go, it is a fair range of types.

There is a tunnel tank feature which is quite good- though the light seems very low so taking pictures is not easy.

Can you tell that I was not very impressed? But that is mainly because we have an excellent aquarium in Sydney, privately run and cheaper than this one, so I have been spoilt.

I have also been spoilt by Taronga Zoo in Sydney, which is now a beautiful place with many excellent exhibits that allow the animals to live in a near natural environment.

At CM Zoo, the enclosures are of the 1950's ilk- small, lots of concrete and lots of dirt with the alluring smell of shit wafting skywards.

The range of animals is OK- cats, lizards etc.

Opening Times
Despite what I read about Twilight at the Zoo, it closes at 5pm.

Given how hot it is from April till September, a late opening time would be smart, especially as it is light till 7:30pm, but that's not the case.

There are various eating places around the zoo, though they all seemed to be closed by 4:30 as we made our way back to the gate.

Outside the gate I found this cafe- hidden below the entry bridge- and closed.

Stairs
A final note of caution- if you are in a wheel chair or if you have trouble climbing stairs, the Zoo and the Aquarium are no good for you.

Disabled access is a thing of the future in Chiang Mai.

Anyway, it was a pleasant way to spend a hot Sunday afternoon.

Citylife Chiang Mai

2009-08-04T08:02:00.000-07:00

This is a great magazine that comes out each month- though I only got to see it at David's West Restaurant after being here for seven months!

They are free and get snapped up and souvenired almost the instant they appear.

Each one has stories, fluff on the goings-on about town and of course a few ads and classifieds.

Luckily their website runs all the time and has some great features- especially the classifieds if you are looking for an apartment, 2nd-hand stuff and even jobs.

West Restaurant, New Location

2009-08-04T07:22:00.000-07:00

David calls it: Comfort Food
I call it: Just Scrumptious

The restaurant was in a Soi off Nimanhaemin Rd for a year or so.
Now it is located in an open area opposite Hillside Condo 4- on Huay Kaew Rd.

It has a leafy terrace overlooking what used to be a market.

The mixed salad doesn't usually come with beetroot but an Aussie customer asked for it.
We love our beetroot!

The Caesar Salad is one of the really big favourites- tasty and delicious.

The lasagne (vegetarian OR meat) with a tomato/bolognaise sauce
may not look great,
But it tastes fabulous!
(I know, I had both this week and they were delicious).

Seafood Marinara is one of my favourites- more of a special than a standard menu item.
It's about what available fresh, after all.

This roast chicken does have a little burn spot,
but it's only skin deep.
Under the skin, well-cooked and still juicy
- not so common in Chiang Mai.

Creme Caramel with cream and coffee sauce- never big enough!

I think this is the Apple Upside Down Cake with some ice cream-
not as popular as the Sticky Date Pudding-
but I have never been so keen on dates myself.

Run by David, an Aussie who designed the menu and still lurks obsessively in the kitchen (he does come out from time to time), the menu reflects all those kinds of food that you really need from time to time: a really good salad, fish'n'chips, pasta to die for and desserts that are a rare treat in this town.

My personal favourite is one of David's creations featuring fresh bananas, ice cream and a drizzle of a sort of caramel toffee syrup. You just have to try it to understand!

You can call David for directions, to order take away and even home delivery:

080 122 7136

Oh, and a fabulous range of pizzas too!

Open 7 days
Lunch 11:30-2:00
Dinner 5:00-10:00

If you take a cab from along Huay Kaew Rd from the Suthep end, just get off at Hillside 4 Condo and cross the road.

From Nimanhaemin, go along Soi 5 and either turn into Fathai Square (but there's no sign and it's easy to miss) or just keep going till you hit Siri Mankalajan (a "T" intersection), turn left and then left into Huay Kaew, then turn left when you see the West and/or la Vie en Rose signs.

Yeah, the second one is a bit silly, but it's only a small circle really.

View West Restaurant, New Location in a larger map

Map Link

Enjoy!

Yum Boi Boi & Gay Bars

2009-07-31T22:51:00.000-07:00

Yum Boi Boi- Location & Website/Blog

This is a charming blog about a new bar in the Santitham Plaza- next to Fit Bar, another gay bar in this entertainment area.

While it might seem odd to put a new bar right beside the gay competition, this is a common practice in Chiang Mai; phone shops together, gold shops together, hardware shops together.

It is a bit like the old Guild streets of medieval times in Europe and so long as you know where to look, it is quite convenient.

The gay bars of Chiang Mai are not public places- no huge signs or prominence.

The bars seem to fall into two categories: show bars & chat bars.

"SHOW" BARS
The show bars are along the lines of what you find in Pattaya- boys in underwear and even, so I am told, stripping down to nothing. The performers are often rather lack-luster and are fundamentally there to show their wares and find a customer.

Frankly I have never yet been to one of these in my 8 months here. I just never found anyone who wanted to go.

CHAT BARS
This is what I call them anyway. These are fairly quiet places- usually quite small for one or two dozen customers.

The 'boys' (young men in fact) act as hosts and are quite happy just to keep you company while you drink, chat and in Cream over at D2 the boys also play chess.

There are several of these- Fit Bar and Yum Boi Boi at Santitham Plaza, Soho Bar on Huay Kaew Rd, opposite the Chiang Mai Orchid Hotel (which is unusual as it is on a main road and quite prominent), and the D2 Bars

The D2 bars are behind and to the left of the Dusit 2 Hotel. There you find about 8 different 'chat' bars all along one small walking lane (soi)- you can just tell the tuktuk driver that you want to go to D2 (pai D2 gay bars) and they will almost always know.

And they all know the Dusit2 Hotel.

_______

Given that this is a terrible time to open any business in Thailand (June 2009), I think I might go to Yum Boi Boi tonight and check it out.

Time to encourage local business.

Transport: Hire Cars, Tuktuk, Songtaew, Bus

2009-07-29T07:54:00.000-07:00

The key to transport in Chiang Mai is language- the more Thai you know, the cheaper it gets.

At the outset you will be dealing with the English-speaking tourist services. These are priced about half of what you might pay in the west.

So a day tour is about 1,000 baht (AUD$40) and seems like a bargain until you realise you spend most of the day squeezed into the back of a Toyota Hi-Ace that has had some seats crammed into the back; you can't stretch out, you can't see and if the air-con isn't great, you can swim in your own sweat. This is NOT a bargain.

(see future post for tour guides with cars)

On my first night I asked for the 'Night Tour' of Chiang Mai. This meant that I got a car and a driver (Louis) who drove around the dark streets of the town for 300 baht/hr. This was supposedly because he knew the town (not really) and spoke English (not much). In the end I went to The Good View Restaurant for a very noisy dinner by the river and then went home to my apartment at Viang Bua (the accommodation will come later). It was not very interesting.

This is Louis, my first driver in Thailand with a tour company-
at 300 baht per hour it seemed cheap at the time-
that's about AUD$12/hr.
It seems insanely expensive now, 8 months later.

The next step is the Tuktuk, so-called because of the sound it often makes. These are tricycles based on a motorbike engine and operate like taxis but there is no system. If you want to book one, you ask at the front desk or you get a number.

The pricing for these is totally negotiable and varies widely depending on the hour, the place and the mood of the driver. A trip across town could cost anywhere from 70 to 140 baht.

It is also worth noting that this is not Bangkok. An asking price is usually what they really want, but if it seems outrageous (and you only know this with experience), the most you can expect is a 20% disocount after some jocular discussion.

Tuktuk drivers often speak a little English (numbers, go to, come from) but not always. The rule is, the more Thai you speak, the less you pay. So learn some Thai quick smart, and also learn how to say place names in either Thai or Thaiglish, that peculiar version of English that only faintly resembles the original.

The author is NOT a tuktuk (pron. took-took- for the sound they make) driver but has often dreamed of buying one.

Anyway, don't panic, the drivers are almost universally friendly and patient, so just try your best.

But whatever you do, don't get annoyed or speak loudly. In Thailand this is the height of rudeness and very upsetting to the locals.

If your driver gets lost, which happens all the time, don't worry. It won't cost you any more if he has to drive twice the distance necessary and he is quite used to it; stopping and asking the way is a primary social function in Chiang Mai and the North. Maps are almost unheard of.

This is Khun Khar beside his tuktuk who worked as my main driver for the first few months of my stay. He spoke English (which is unusual) and was a great support in many ways- helping me find things around town, acting as interpreter and one day after making sure I got home OK at some ungodly, he rang to tell me I had given him 1,000 bath by mistake. Really.

The cheapest method of transport around town is the Red Cab (or sometimes called red Bus) and for this you will need a bit of Thai-

Pai Kad Suan Kaew, Huay Kaew, shai-mai Khrap?

But really all you need is 'pai' (the 'p' is pronounced half-way between a 'b' and a 'p' and the 'ai' as in 'buy' or 'bye') plus the destination.

They will reply with 'OK, khrap' (because OK is Thai) or shake their head and maybe say 'mai pai' ('mai' pron as in 'my' meaning not or no- but be careful, 'mai' can also mean 'new' and 'more' and a few other things depending on the tone and context).

To hail a Red Cab you wave them down with a sort of awkward full hand gesture (no thumbs or fingers) and then have the discussion.

If they like you or are going that way, more or less, then they will say yes.

Then you need to ask: 'Thawrai na?" (How much?) but if you don't speak Thai then you might be in trouble.

Many Songtaew drivers speak no English at all.

This is the local bus service after all- how many bus drivers speak Thai in your home town?

If they say yes- which might just be a nod and 'khrap'- or 'OK khrap' then you have a ride. (If not they will shake their head and drive off.)

You then have a choice. As a foreigner you can gesture to the front seat (do NOT point) and they will wave you in or gesture to the back.

In hot weather I have discovered that the back is usually cooler- especially in the older cabs.

And then the adventure begins.

Sometimes you get the front seat and with no other passengers the driver chats with you in fluent English, you have a fun time and he drives you directly to your door for 20 baht- and so you get premium service at bargain basement prices.

(There are very few women drivers.)

At other times, you get on the back to find a group of monks, chickens (not really) and children and go for a meandering drive dropping people off at schools and monasteries until you finally find yourself on your street.

This is not to mention the several other stops you can expect as they discuss fares with other prospective customers.

A trip that would directly take about 10 minutes can sometimes stretch to 45- so be prepared for that. If you are in a rush, take a tuktuk as they only take one fare at a time.

For a short trip (less than 1km) pay about 10 baht, for 2km or so about 20 baht (AUD$0.80).

Oh, and you only pay when you get off- which poses problems for me who often absent-mindedly walks off without paying.

Horns are honked, people laugh and I bashfully return, pointing to my shaking head, and pay- with a smile of course!

Where to stand
Now this is quite important- and nobody tells you- do NOT stand where the gutter is painted in red and white as that is a 'No Stopping' zone.

There is no sign, so just be aware.

The Bus Service- Actual 40 seaters
This is very tricky for 'farang' (basically means ALL foreigners with money except those from Southeast Asia) as the signs are in Thai and the staff speak no English.

A Thai person just stands on the road and waves them down, but for a foreigner there is just no way of knowing their destination or paying the fare.

The only solution is to go to a bus station (there's one on Changpuek Rd near the Elephant Monument) where the ticket booths have English signs (one ticket booth per route/destination) but even then, you need a translator/helper.

And once on the bus, how will you know when to get off?

Still, I have been up to Chiang Dao- a two hour trip- and it was quite comfortable with fans and open windows.

The way back was a bit trying, sitting on the bit of seat that was thrust into the aisle so three of us could share- sort of riding on half your bum...

But it was very cheap- 40 baht I think for one way... so you get what you pay for.

So if you are planning a trip to an adjacent town like Lampang, Lamphun or Ban Tawaii it could be a cheap and fun way to experience how the locals get about.

Duty Free Scam at Suvarnabhumi (Bangkok) Airport

2009-07-24T22:43:00.000-07:00

"It's Corruption You Know."
Sunil “Tony” Rathnayaka, a volunteer interpreter for the Thai Tourism Police.

I present this article in an attempt to share the confusion that arises when a western person tries to understand how corruption and cronyism works in some countries.

Frankly, it is mind-popping the more you look at it.

In the case above a couple were taken by security guards on the way to catch their plane. They were then taken to a police station and jailed, accused to stealing a wallet from a duty free store. Their travel documents were taken by the police and they were then moved to a seedy hotel.

At this point they sought help from the British Embassy who flatly told them that the embassy could not get involved in local affairs... so they paid a huge bribe, got back their documents and fled the country.

Now a western person might be moved to ask some searing questions:

Were the security guards real or fake? (Turns out they were real.)

Couldn't they look at the camera footage from the airport? (They did but it is not clear.)

Couldn't they ask Mr Rathnayaka to whom he gave the bribe? (He said 'the little big man'.)

Given that they know which police station, could they not ask who had placed the first theft charge and thus initiated the scam? (Turns out it was King Power Duty Free which has the monopoly at the airport.)

Could they, perhaps, start an investigation? (As King Power claims it was a just accusation and the case was closed due to insufficient evidence, there is nothing to investigate.)

At the very least, from a security point of view, you don't want fake security guards wandering around an airport. (It seems they were just doing their normal job.)

Maybe it's not important.

You might also think that, at a time when tourism numbers are at an all-time low (27,000 for all of Thailand in June) a government would do everything it could to reassure future visitors that it is a safe and lawful place to visit.

But then you show your misunderstanding; it is much better not to make a disturbance, don't draw attention to trouble and it will eventually go away.

Unfortunately this is not an isolated incident.

Following this report other travellers have come forward to report similar experiences both before and after this incident.

One estimate suggests that 160 such scams are happening monthly.

Is that credible? I really don't know.

Curiously the link to this story that appeared in the Bangkok Post online seems to be disconnected, and CNN has nothing about it.

Enough said.

____________________________

Phuketwan Website:
The Scam- Initial reporting
July 24, 2009- Airport Scam: Duty Free Store Declares Innocence

FULL STORY-TIMES ONLINE

I PROVIDE BELOW A CUT AND PASTE OF THE STORY FROM THE TIMES, as I have found that such on-line stories can disappear just when you want to read them.

The story has several interesting aspects:
1. The couple were accused of stealing by 'security guards' at the airport, on their way to board their plane.
2. They were handed over to Thai police and placed in police cells, their passports and travel documents confiscated.
3. They were moved to a 'Pink (Love) Hotel near the airport and asked for several thousand pounds to post bail and place a bribe for the charges to be dropped.
4. They transferred the money from England to the bank account of an interpreter for the Sri Lankan Embassy- who freely admits that he did all this- "It's corruption", he said.
5. The charges were dropped and their travel documents were returned.
6. They left the country.

The Article:

British couple fights Bangkok airport extortionists

Two tourists were held by an airport gang until they paid up £8,000

A British couple who were falsely accused of shoplifting in Bangkok airport and were forced to pay £8,000 in bribes to secure their release are to take legal action for compensation.

They were the victims of an extortion racket that has ensnared other foreign travellers at the airport, which handles most of the 800,000 British visitors to Thailand every year. (SEE MY COMMENT BELOW)

Stephen Ingram, 49, and Xi Lin, 45, both technology professionals from Cambridge, were detained by security guards as they went to board Qantas flight QF1 to London on the night of Saturday, April 25.

They were accused of taking a Givenchy wallet worth £121 from a King Power duty-free shop and were handed over to the police. An official release order from the local Thai prosecutor’s office subsequently conceded there was no evidence against them.

They were freed five days later after a frightening ordeal in which they said they were threatened and held against their will at a cheap motel on the airport perimeter until they had handed over the money.

The bribes were paid to an intermediary named Sunil “Tony” Rathnayaka, a Sri Lankan national in his fifties who works as a “volunteer” interpreter for Thailand’s tourist police (motto: “To serve and to protect”).

“Our main motivation is to protect other innocent British tourists from being caught up in this nightmare,” said Ingram last week. “We intend to take every legal means to recover our money and obtain justice.”

Last week Rathnayaka admitted in a telephone interview that he had received cash and money transfers amounting to more than £7,000 from the Britons. He said the money was for police bail and for a payment to a figure he called “Little Big Man” who could withdraw the case against them.

“In Thailand everyone knows it’s like that,” he said. “They can go to jail or they can just pay a fine and go home. It is corruption, you know?”

Rathnayaka also agreed that the “bail” — about £4,000 — was never returned to Ingram and Xi. Thai law says bail should be refunded.

In a detailed statement the couple said they were first detained at an airport office of the tourist police and later taken to cells at a police station in an isolated modern building on the fringes of the airport.

Rathnayaka confirmed that he met them in the cells on the morning of Sunday, April 26, and arranged the “bail”. The police kept the couple’s passports. Rathnayaka then escorted Ingram and Xi to the Valentine Resort, a lurid pink motel a few hundred yards from the runways. They were to remain there for four days.

During that time, Rathnayaka warned them not to tell anyone about their plight, especially the British embassy, lawyers, friends, family or the press.

However, on April 27 they sneaked out of the hotel and found their way to the embassy, where they met Kate Dufall, the pro-consul.

According to the couple, she told them the embassy could not interfere with the Thai legal system and put them in contact with Prachaya Vijitpokin, a lawyer.

Vijitpokin and a colleague, Kittamert Engchountada, of the Lawyers Association of Thailand, urged them to stay in the country to fight the case and have since assembled a dossier for potential prosecutions.

However, Ingram said the couple were so terrified by this stage that they decided to meet the demands for money, which they raised by bank transfers from Britain direct to Rathnayaka’s account. The Sunday Times has copies of the transactions.

Ingram and Xi were put on a British Airways flight to London early on Friday, May 1, having received their passports with official documents from prosecutors and police stating that no charges were to be brought against them.

They have said they are willing to return to Thailand and testify to try to stop the extortion if the government will guarantee their safety.

That could become a priority for Thailand, which has suffered a series of blows to its tourist industry through economic and political upheaval.

Inquiries last week established that Rathnayaka and his accomplices have continued preying on tourists who end up in police custody after being accused of theft from the airport duty-free shop. “I am just helping people,” he explained. “I don’t get paid to do this. All the embassies know me.”

Officials at the Danish embassy confirmed that a Danish woman fell into Rathnayaka’s hands about two weeks ago and was allowed to leave Thailand only after handing over more than £4,500.

When a Sunday Times journalist posing as a businessman in trouble contacted Rathnayaka last week, the first thing he said was: “If it’s a case, for example, of shoplifting at the airport duty-free then I can help. Bail is 100,000 baht (£1,800).” He later declined an interview, saying the Sri Lanka embassy — which employs him as an interpreter — had told him not to speak.

The Foreign Office said consular officials had offered to raise the case with the Thai authorities at the time but had been asked by the couple not to intervene.

A spokesman for King Power duty-free said the company had strict rules for evidence to be submitted to the police in shoplifting cases, but added: “We cannot control what happens after that.”

TIMESONLINE- From The Sunday Times - June 28, 2009

800,000 British visitors to Thailand every year: Given that the total number of tourists for June 2009 was about 27,000 this number now seems VERY unlikely.

Finally

I am actually loathe to publish this story.

There is no doubt that something happened and that corruption was involved.

But at the same time it might give a skewed impression that life here is totally about corruption and bribery.

It is not.

The vast majority of people are friendly and helpful.

Most shopkeepers are honest and fair in their dealings.

Perhaps it is also worth mentioning here that Chiang Mai is not Bangkok. It is an accepted maxim here that people go to Bangkok to make money whereas they go to Chiang Mai for the climate and the lifestyle. They are very different.

And this applies across most of the country.

Thailand is a pleasant, friendly and, in general, scrupulously moral culture.

Probably more so than the West.

It should not all be tarred with the same brush.

Maybe the only sensible advice is this- if you are worried by this story, stay out of Duty Free shops in the airports.

Frankly, they don't offer any useful bargains anyway.

____________

Postscript.
Despite the link failure at the Bangkok Post a discussion thread about the Airport Scam has attracted 90 posts as of 30 July 2009.

Reading these posts it is obvious there are a number of different scams in operation:

The duty free allowance scam- accusing arriving people of smuggling by getting them to out their duty free purchases into their luggage before they go from baggage claim to customs, or

getting groups of people to put all their duty free into one bag ('for convenience') and then charging the person carrying the bag with 'smuggling' or some such.

The King Power bag scam- putting extra items in your carry bag at the checkout counter and then getting the police to arrest you for theft of said items.

And so on.

If you are planning a trip to/from Bangkok, you really should read this forum.

Chiang Mai X-Centre Sports

2009-07-24T21:38:00.000-07:00

I just came across this reference in the Bangkok Post which prompted this entry.

I have never been to X-Centre, nor have I ever met anyone who has been there so I cannot recommend it personally.

I was thinking the Go-Karts might be fun but looking at the design (see below) they seem to have a rather high centre of gravity compared to other go-karts I have seen.

Would this make them unstable? Dangerous?

Personally I am decidely risk-averse when it comes to gambling with my physical vessel as I only have one, don't enjoy chronic painful damage and my faith in reincarnation/afterlife is currently firmly agnostic.

CAVEAT EMPTOR
Do keep in mind that while Thailand recently enacted product liability laws, there is no liability attached to professional services. So you can do whatever you like in business and the buyer is responsible for what they get. Be careful.

Link to Website

From BKK Post:

Challenge yourself with some extreme sports at Chiang Mai X-Centre - an ultimate diversion from the tediously repetitive Bangkok lifestyle. Located at Mae Rim, the centre offers extreme entertainment via bungee jumping, off-road buggies, trail bikes, go-karts, paintball and the zorb ball. With free taxi service for prospective customers, it's a short ride from Chiang Mai town.

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION, call 053-297-700, 087-833-6655

Go-Kart on Circular 'Windy' Track

600 baht per hour

Plus extra time for 'safe' driving

(from their site).

View Larger Map

Directions Map: 17kms North, about 20 minutes (according to Google Maps) but given that it can take that long to just get across the 4kms to the Superhighway at the north of the city, that might be optimistic. At the same time, when traffic is not jammed up (which it often is) the roads around Chiang Mai are surprisingly good.

View Larger Map

Makro Hypermarket, Chiang Mai

2009-07-24T00:35:00.000-07:00

Makro sells almost everything from electronic goods to fresh meat.

You can get a bottle or box of wine, a wide range of fresh & frozen foods and a host of household goods- often large packets of small portions for the use of shops and restaurants.

But you do need to become a member- pretend to be a business by waving about a business card of almost any nature- I showed them my old RDA business card and my personal card as a teacher here and that was all I needed.

In other words- bluff!

The Hypermarket presents itself as a supplier to business but it really serves anyone with a few thousand baht to buy things in bulk.

I haven't done a price comparison but I reckon the prices are not much cheaper than the supermarkets.

It costs nothing to join.They don't supply plastic bags free at the checkout. You have to buy them- 50 bath each when I was last there.

A definite motivator for re-use but what happens if you take them in by yourself? Will they charge you again?

You can also buy flat-pack furniture - a range of desks and shelves.

Their range of frozen goods is unequalled anywhere else in town and at very reasonable prices- but the packs are BIG so you will need a generous freezer.

Usually you can't buy just one- note the plastic "packs" of threes.

They do have a reasonable range of stationery plus a whole aisle of disposable plates, cups and eating utensils.

You can even buy TVs, washing machines and whiteboards.

BUT THEY DON'T DELIVER and while sometimes there is a songtaew (taxi truck/red cab) in the carpark, I recommend you hire your own, take it there and have it wait.

This might add a few hundred baht to the cost but you really don't want to be standing in that hot carpark waiting.

I used s tuktuk last time- you CAN fit a full trolley's worth of goods AND two people in a tuktuk if you are prepared to stack it in! But I wouldn't advise it.

View Larger Map

Spirit Houses

2009-07-20T20:37:00.000-07:00

The Spirit House is often cited as something unique to Thailand and while its local manifestation has its own special character, it remains a feature of many cultures.

My earliest contact with this idea was the Lares of Roman homes during my studies of Latin in high school.

Just as in Rome, the Spirit House is for those spirits who will protect the house and also, according to some reports, a place for ghostly spirits to reside instead of haunting the house.

Houses are often occupied by complex caste of characters: servants, dancers, elephants and horses.

Each day it is the duty of the household (or business) to supply food, drink and fragrant flowers to keep the spirits happy.

Some versions of this presentation also consider the making of offering creates good fortune in the mode of 'making merit' for oneself or one's family.

'Making merit' is a curious and concept. It refers to many different acts of devotion; a son in the monkhood can create merit for his parents thus improving their prospects in the next life, giving of food to monks is said to in turn provide food for relatives in the afterlife or even oneself when one gets there, giving of alms and gold to a temple also makes merit for similar reasons.

All of this seems to a part of the 'upward percolation from the autochthonous substrate' (one of those phrases I picked up studying anthropology that never appears in the vulgar world) whereby elements of the original animist religion make their way into the newest arrival- in this case Buddhism.

A similar trend can be seen in the Roman Catholic religion whereby local deities were transformed into saints and their festivals co-opted for Christian purposes.

However, given that Hinduism also adheres to this belief, animism may have arrived with the Buddhist influence and been adapted from local folk myths.

Purist Buddhists here do not adhere to animism or the use of the Spirit House and my travels in the northwest mountains, where most of the inhabitants have become Christians, rarely have Spirit Houses in evidence. I don't know if this is the result of their conversion or the fact that their Burmese backgrounds do not support the concept.

Nonetheless, they are evident in most homes and businesses in Chiang Mai and the provision of offerings each morning is taken as a very important and serious duty.

According to local reports this task should be performed by the owner or boss of the business/home, to show proper respect and ensure good fortune. Failure to do so will lead to dire results.

One of the dire results of this practice was witnessed by me during Songkran while sitting quietly having a beer in an open bar. It was around 1am and my attention was drawn to a movement on a nearby tree, only to realise it was a group of rats feasting on the offerings of the day.

I was a little disturbed by this.

One can only speculate...

Movie Guide, Cinemas

2009-07-18T22:40:00.000-07:00

Link to Thom's Blog

There are two cinema chains in Chiang Mai but their websites are horrible.

It is much easier to go to this blog and see what's on.

There are also weekly "avant garde" films at the CMU Art Gallery on Nimanhaemin each Saturday night, 7pm. A donation of 20 baht is recommended.

And at Alliances Francaises on Friday nights at 8pm- not sure how much.

But you want to be careful as they are often in Thai only and Thom forgets to mention this so you need to go to the cinema website to check out English showtimes.

Sorry!

Vista- Kadsuan Kaew (Central)

Cineplex at Airport Plaza - not a very friendly site

Ping River Cruise Bt450 (Aud$22.5)

2009-07-18T20:02:00.000-07:00

Ping River Cruise Company

133 Charoenprathet Rd., A. Muang,Chiang Mai 50100 Thailand
Tel. 081-8844621, 081-8850663, 0-5327-4822 Fax. 0-5381-8627
E-mail:maepingrivercruise@hotmail.com Travel service no. 23/0331

Map
Here's a map to the embarkation point really it is not easy to find. Much better to call for a pick-up from your hotel (or from the one nearest to your apartment/guesthouse) and then they return you- all up around 550 baht and a major saving in time, hassle and tuk-tuk charges.

Riverside scenes are often magnificent.

The boats are comfortable and hold around 16 people.

The first time I went on this cruise it rained and it was a bit depressing as all my photos looked very drab.

The second it was warm and sunny and as you can see, there are some good sites/sights along the way.

It really is the most quiet and relaxed way to get a tour of the city though don't expect much from the guides on board. You can be lucky but mostly they are just local guys with a basic understanding of English and not much knowledge to share.

But the boats are comfortable and they potter along at a relaxed pace giving plenty of time to catch the various scenes along the way-

from the most magnificent mansions

to the most basic slums... and on a sunny day, plenty of washing out to dry.

Note the fishing net- actually still in use in some areas.

When you get to the 'authentic village' setting you soon realise that it is a purpose-built mini-theme park but at least you get to see some of the old ways of doing things.

If you go for the lunch tour you get a decent bite to eat and some drinks included (somewhat mysterious but quite delicious) and you can have a beer for a bit extra (50 baht?).

Even the toilets are well worth a look.

River scene from Good View Restaurant, but most of the river is dark at night.

There is a dinner cruise offered as well but really it is better to go in the day time- not that much to see at night and you will miss out on the jungle in the dark.

You would also miss out on these little fisherman's shelters along the way.

If you are a photo buff, try to get a seat at the front for the best shots.

If you miss out, you can still go up to the front (the prow?) and get a few snaps.

Wat Prathat, Doi Suthep

2009-07-18T00:23:00.000-07:00

When you arrive at the base of the temple you have a choice of either walking up the hundreds of steps or you can catch the lift/cable car for around 40 baht- but don't expect a view on the way up as the route is completely enclosed.

Once at the top you find a large flat area with various temples and shrines, and a coffe shop.

Be warned- this is a temple precinct so NO SMOKING is the rule till you get back down.

There are lots of bells around the temple that people ring for good luck- feel free to have a go.

The view is spectacular though it is mostly like this- cloudy/smoggy - unless you come on a windy day. Chiang Mai is in a valley surrounded by hills so smoke and pollution tends to remain above the town.

It is a Buddhist temple but you will also find elements of a strong Indian influence.

Wikipedia Link

Doi Suthep is a smallish mountain to the west of Chiang Mai. It's not far and you can take a Songtaew (pron. Song-tao) from anywhere along Huay Kaew (Way-Gow) Rd going west with Doi Suthep written on the front or side.

How much depends on how many are travelling but you shouldn't spend more than 100 baht. It will take anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour to get there depending on the traffic.

If you take a tour you should go further afield and visit the Royal Summer Residence which is further west and actually higher up than the temple- on another peak. I haven't been there yet.

There is also a waterfall on the way up Doi Suthep that the locals rave about but when I went it was the dry season, so not much water was in evidence.

Anyway, Doi Suthep is one of the must-see places for Chiang Mai and really worth the small effort to get there.

View Larger Map

Burmese Cigar

2009-07-15T00:22:00.001-07:00

This is a half-smoked Burmese cigar, 2 for one baht.

At first I thought it tasted like banana leaf (a memory from a long-distant wasted youth?) and Ghan told me this was because I was smoking the wrong end!

So light the pointy end and suck on the flat end. Huh.

Anyway, even from the correct end they still taste like crap.

How this can be given that they are simply tobacco leave, I have no idea.

It looks like this might be the end to smoke but it isn't.
Suck on this end, fire up the other!

Wine Cask Dangers

2009-07-15T00:10:00.000-07:00

Just a small warning- with the wine casks.

DO NOT TWIST THE TAP into the box opening.

Twice I have had the bladder spring a leak as a result.

You need to pull the tap out gently and then twist it around while holding the tube backing.

Just a small twist will create a break in the bladder and a slow drip.

No fun with red wine!

____________

Postscript: I talked to my mate David of West Restaurant about this and he has had similar problems with these casks- so it's not only me!

But then he also told me that he doesn't serve this wine- not because of the casks but because it is locally blended and some farang don't like it. The rumour is that it has been watered down with grape juice...

This may be true but I reckon it is still the most potable economical wine available.

Chiang Dao & Baan Mai Malaki: The North

2009-07-14T23:46:00.001-07:00

Ghan and his niece choose vegetables at the market.

Just a temple by the road. The mountains are always in the background.

A petrol (gas) station Chiang Dao style- notice the hand pumps. Here Ghan measures the tank with a straw to determine how much to put in.

Driving along one of the outback roads with Burma looming in the distance.

This is the view from Ghan's house in Baan Mai Malaki, about as far north as you can get before you leave Thailand. Burma is just 4km over there, through the jungle.

We just came back from a three day trip up to the northernmost point above Chiang Mai- driving through Chiang Dao and then up to the mountains on the Burmese border.

As you can see, the scenery is spectacular, though truly a photo cannot do it justice. These really are dramatic and beautiful- rain or shine.

The trip takes just a few hours by car though if you are planning exploring the mountains you should take a 4-wheel drive as some of the roads seem to be almost vertical!

The people of this region seem more closely related to Burma (no-one calls it Myanmar here) - darker complexion, their own dialect and diet and also the tendency to wear sarongs, something you don't see around Chiang Mai.

The highways going north are very well maintained in general and are still being extended. Before too long there will be a 4 lane road going all the way. It is said that this was Taksin Shinawatra's idea to create another crossing point into Burma and also China to improve tourism and trade. So far there is the road, but no crossing allowed for tourists.

It doesn't really matter- it is still quite fabulous up there.

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The Myth of the Tones: Mai (My)

2009-07-10T02:52:00.000-07:00

People coming to Asia are often perplexed by tonal languages. They exist in a cluster around the Mekong across into Burma. Chinese, in its various dialects, is also an example.

How does this work? Well, each vowel sound has a variety of pronunciations- short, long, rising, falling and maybe neutral- that change the meaning of the word and/or sound.

Mai (pron. like my as in "my hat") can mean:

no
new
more
- and two more I don't know yet.

Of course "no" and "more" can be very confusing.

But one has to realise that most of these languages are context-reliant.

They rely on where and when they are being spoken to achieve their full meanings.

This is particularly true for Thai where there are no plurals, no verb tenses, no articles and often sentences have neither subjects or objects.

So, if you do get the pronunciation wrong (which you inevitably will), it really doesn't matter that much- especially if you can accompany your expression with lots of waving, pointing and facial expression.

When trying to teach you the language I sometimes feel that Thais get a perverse pleasure in demonstrating the subtle elements of the language to uncomprehending 'farang' (foreigner/s).

Not only are there the tones but also extra vowels and consonants not present in European languages, nor even in Chinese.

Basically the smart track is to learn key expressions (whole sentences) and practice them as often as possible.

If you come close, you will get your message across, and at worst you will be appreciated for trying. Never mind the occasionally giggles!

And even better, from time to time locals will try to help you get it right.

So don't hold back- just jump it and have a go!

Wine & Cigarettes

2009-07-10T00:07:00.000-07:00

The cost of both wine and cigarettes went up recently as the government increases excise taxes in a bid to improve the health of the nation.

Bottles of wine range from about 300 baht upwards but a decent bottle is probably running closer to 1,000.

Conversely, these casks of South African wine are now about 950 each for 5 litres and quite decent- even drinkable without soda etc.

At current exchange that's about $38 Aussie dollars which would be insane for a cask wine in Sydney but given the extreme prices for uncertain plonk, it is an economical alternative.

You will see lots of 'Bottle Shops' around the city but they mainly only sell scotch and some do gin and vodka- but rarely wines.

And anyway, if you want spirits, every 7-Eleven sells a reasonable variety- though not always at the best prices.

In the summer adding a chill to reds is as wise as to the whites since a red at 32 degrees is not so great.

By the way, at present buying alcohol is restricted to these hours: 11-3, 5-12. However, if you buy a large enough amount (several litres)- these times do not apply!

Those same hours apply to when you can officially drink at a bar or restaurant but this seems be very flexible the more you get away from the main streets. Also some bars are licensed to 1am and discos to later.

We shall see how this pans out as the new police chief of Chiang Mai has vowed to stop illegal drinking, so expect some changes there.

The wine casks can be purchased at Makro- which is way out to the east of the town:

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But also from the bottle shop just north of the Tesco Express on Nimanhaemin- for the same price.

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In eight months this is also the only shop where I found you can buy cigs by the "carton"- actually a plastic wrap of 10. It was less than 800 for a wrap of 10 but I really can't remember exactly.

You can get them cheaper if you are willing to try the local Thai brands but be prepared for a special taste.

Condom Machine

2009-07-06T18:30:00.000-07:00

Condoms, Lube: 1990s & Now

Not only was I struck by the cleanliness and pleasant aroma of the toilets are David’s new West restaurant, but also impressed by the condom vending machine:

2 strawberry condoms for 10 baht
(that’s less than 25¢ each in Aussie dollars).

However, given that 100 baht a day is a common salary, that compares to around AUD $25 as a comparative part of local income.

Imagine if condoms were $25 each in Australia?

On the plus side, things have improved.

In the 1990s I came here when I was doing research for my thesis about AIDS research.

At that time I noted how, while condoms were freely available (they even had a Health Minister nick-named Mr Condom), water-based lubricant was not.

Now you see wherever you find condoms- and at the 7-Eleven they are prominently displayed on the front counter- right beside them is KY Jelly in various sizes.

This is a good and smart approach as oil-based lubricants tend to deteriorate the rubber and increase the chances of breakage.

It is equally good because the embarrassed tourist does not have to ask where they are.

I still remember a day in Manila where, after finding the condoms in the chemist shop, the lubricant was nowhere to be seen.

I went to the counter and asked:

Where is the KY Jelly? Lube? Wet Stuff?

There was a long line building up behind me as she shouted across the store:

KY Jelly? (and something in Tagalog)

And everyone in the store stared at me like I was ordering deep-fried children!

So-oh much better to have them in plain sight and side by side.

Huay Tung Tao Reservoir (By Ghan)

2009-07-06T05:09:00.000-07:00

The Lake is a few kilometres in circumference in a beautiful mountain setting,
but then everything is around here.

The Afro-Wig Caterpillar,
found in abundance around our cafe.
4cm long- according to Ghan quite poisonous if eaten.

The Many-Headed Naga guards a Hindu God
with human figure to provide a sense of scale.

Buddha at The Lake with Reno figure to give a sense of scale.

Today Ghan and I rode through the drizzle to have lunch at The Lake, just a few kms north along Canal (Cholpratan) Rd- the street where I live.

Despite the weather it was a delightful, very peaceful spot.

In summer it is something of a beach resort. Ghan tells me that on sunny weekends it is packed with people swimming, boating, eating and fishing.

On this day a few brave souls swam and a few dozen were fishing.

These photos taken by Ghan on his new camera which he bought when he won the lottery- really!

Except the caterpillar- by Reno.

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New Education for Hilltribes & Migrants

2009-07-01T22:27:00.000-07:00

This is a major breakthrough that has the potential to give millions of disadvantaged people a chance at a decent future- something that has been unavailable for a long, long time.

Click on image for 20cm version.

Driving Around

2009-07-01T20:04:00.000-07:00

Fly Screens & Insects

2009-07-01T18:55:00.000-07:00

I come from Sydney, Australia and I used to live in the inner city- most recently in Redfern- and let me tell you, over there we have plenty of insects: mosquitoes (called mozzies), flies and many different varieties of cockroaches imported on ships from all over the world.

In Chiang Mai it is the mosquitoes you notice most of all, especially in the colder months. They are not like the Sydney type which wander about alone, the CM mozzie moves in swarms. I remember at my previous house going to the back door of an evening to find hundreds of them there just waiting to get in- quite a scary sight.

How dangerous are they here?

This area is not common for malaria - that's more to the south- and I have read no reports of disease from them but they are certainly a nuisance.

In the cooler months, a bit of a spray on exposed areas is a very good idea.

---------

Here at my apartment I just installed screens on all the windows (1,000 baht each including installation)- not because of the mozzies as there weren't any, but rather because a swarm of bees started a hive outside my bedroom window last week. Really.

On top of that there was also the occasional visiting wasp, another unwelcome visitor.

The apartment is on the 13th and 14th floors, one of the highest in Chiang Mai, but you still get the little buggers!

Beehive under construction outside my bedroom window.

I had seen the abandoned wax structures before I bought the apartment and figured that they were now defunct. Hmmm.

Then, one afternoon a few days back, I was surprised to see what looked like a huge animated ball outside my window. It was a swarm of bees. I promptly closed all my windows tight shut and watched the action.

I have NEVER seen anything like it in my life.

They have mostly settled down now, with just a few flying off and returning, and they have stopped banging into my windows (and now my screens) so I guess they are more oriented to their new surroundings.

__________

You do need to keep in mind that Chiang Mai is really just an overgrown country town, with lots of wild land still within the city limits.

It is quite certain there are lots of other insects and dangerous animals hidden away.

Keep in mind, while they are now quite rare, the cobra is still seen in these parts from time to time.

Cool Days: July

2009-07-01T18:39:00.001-07:00

http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/world/city_guides/results.shtml?tt=TT002900

Go to the website to find this graph expressed in numbers.
__________________

As you can see from the chart, if June just passed seemed like a very wet month (and it did), then it looks like I am in for a bit of a learning curve as July, August and especially September are predicted to be MUCH wetter.

The strange thing is that it is now the 2nd July and it seems to have been getting less wet.

It also feels cooler.

For the next 3 months it is predicted to be 23-31 on average, though it can get to 37 at the extremes.

For the first time in months I wake up in the mornings and am happy just to turn on the fan- no need for that aircon that has been on 24/7 for weeks.

That's just as well as the electic bill at 2,700 baht (about $110) per month was just a bit much.

At the previous house, without using the aircon, it was around 600 a month (AUD$24), so you can see the difference.

June Weather

2009-06-30T23:46:00.000-07:00

The seasons here can be very confusing.

I arrived in November and the weather was dry and cool all the way till March.

Then in April and May it gets rather hot. This year each day reached the middle-high 30s but it was mostly a dry heat and not too wearing.

But then in May the weather changed and the rainy season (the monsoon in fact) began. With this the temperatures vary from cooler (mid-20s) to rather hot (high 30s) and the humidity kicks in.

Some days in June have been utterly muggy and oppressive.

As for how long this will last, it is anyone's guess. It varies from year to year.

The outside estimate is that the rain will continue through to September- a full 6 months.

With the grey skies and occasional whole days of slow drizzle, it actually looks like winter to me but the warmth is hard to ignore.

When the skies do clear it is a relief and you can get a fabulous blue sky day, but then the mercury creeps into the 30s again.

Anyway, we shall see how it goes.

LOOK AT THIS, Art Gallery

2009-06-30T04:40:00.000-07:00

Situated on Nimanhaemin Rd, this large gallery has several floors of contemporary art, by Thai and expatriate artists.

The gallery regularly hosts new exhibitions that begin with openings of the western style- food and wine flow in generous proportions making them a prime social magnet for the movers and shakers of Chiang Mai society.

Well worth a visit if you can find out when they are on.

Marshall, the gallery owner, is a very friendly and generous host.

I met him in the way I often meet interesting folk; while sneaking a cigarette on the street with the other social outcasts!

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